Travelling in Mozambique

Before setting out for mozambique, you need to obtain a visa, have a copy of your vehicle registration document with you, and take prophylaxis against malaria. Crossing the border is fairly straightforward. You will be issued a vehicle temporary important permit (TIP) which must be returned when you exit. Pay attention to the expiry date of your visa. Penalties for overstaying are huge and involve prison if you are not carrying lots of cash. Single entry visas are valid for 30 days, multiple entry visas for 10 days per entry.

Travelling conditions have improved enormously since the end of the war. Extensive road reconstruction has taken place, and at the time of writing, all major roads are in good condition. Police harassment of innocent travellers has largely been stamped out. At random police checkpoints, you must produce your driver’s licence and vehicle TIP, and you will be allowed to continue in peace. Speed traps are however a major hazard. The general limit is 120 for cars, but 80 for bakkies (pickups), and 50 in towns and villages. Fines are R400 irrespective, and there is no leniency for drivers who were barely over the limit.
Mine clearing operations have been ongoing for over 10 years, and landmine incidents are becoming increasingly rare. All the major routes are free of mines (no guarantee). If you want to find a land mine, look around the perimeters of deserted settlements, along disused railway lines and disused roads.

In smaller towns, fuel supplies are unreliable or non-existent. Be sure to fill up in the major centres. On secondary roads, many journeys take more than a day, so camping at the roadside is common practice and generally safe. Birders visiting mozambique are encouraged to submit their birdlists to the mozambique Bird Atlas Project. Fieldcards can be obtained by contacting marja@maths.uct.ac.za and supplying your postal address. Alternatively, birdlists (with date and locality details) can be submitted by email to vinparker@yahoo.com. Contact the same address for further information about the Bird Atlas Project. Copies of the Atlas of the birds of Sul do Save, southern mozambique, can be obtained from the Endangered Wildlife Trust or the Avian Demography Unit.

Birding
A trip into mozambique entails rather more than a family holiday to the Kruger National Park, and a certain level of ruggedness and a sense of adventure is a required. The primary area of focus is central mozambique, i.e. the region north of Beira, and towards the Zambezi river. The only real 'special' south of this area is the Oliveheaded Weaver which was found recently again at Panda. Along with the numerous other 'specials' in the area, very good general birding is possible throughout, though there seems little point in risking life and limb for birds that can be seen in south Africa or Zimbabwe. Staying three nights would be adequate for big time twitchers, but for more extensive birding 7 to 10 days are advised, during which time it would be best to concentrate on finding the mozambique 'specials'.

'Specials' include birds that, within southern Africa, are found exclusively in mozambique: Greenheaded Oriole, Whitebreasted Alethe, Gunning's Robin (or Gunning's Robin), Yellowbreasted Hyliota, Mascarene Martin, Specklethroated Woodpecker, african Citril, Böhm's Bee-eater and Green Tinker Barbet. The latter two have not been found since the war, while african Citril is a new and as yet unconfirmed sighting. Other 'specials' that are hard to find outside of mozambique include the Chestnutfronted Helmetshrike, Bluethroated Sunbird, Angola Pitta, Eastern Honeyguide, Little Spotted Woodpecker, Vanga Flycatcher, Moustached Warbler, Blue Quail, Shortwinged Cisticola, Redwinged Warbler, Slender Bulbul, Anchieta's Tchagra, Nyasa Seedcracker, Locust Finch and Firecrowned Bishop.

There are a range of habitats including temperate forest (on Mount Gorongosa), lowland forest (from Dondo to Beira and all the way north to the zambezi river), miombo woodland (between Muanza and Inhaminga), and marsh/wetland. Our experience indicates that you do not need to travel far and wide, which in any case is very difficult, to find these habitats. You should rather concentrate on the few relatively accessible and known areas. It is not essential to go as far north as the zambezi river, as one may achieve most birding objectives in a more localised area further south.

Timing is very important. Late November to February is best for the 'specials', except for the Mascarene Martin which is a winter visitor. However, in the rainy season one is at the mercy of the weather. October is generally dry, while November and December are probably the best months for the special cuckoos, as well as being drier than later in the summer. February is best for Firecrowned Bishop in breeding plumage, and potentially good for rare migratory warblers that could appear.