Pumalanga Nature Reserve

Pumalanga Nature Reserve is a private nature reserve in the north east of KwaZulu-Natal, some 280km from Durban. It borders on the southern border of the well-known Mkuze Game Reserve, in the southern foothills of the Ubombo Mountains. Pumalanga houses a wide range of habitats, including riverine forest, rocky valleys, mixed and acacia woodland, seasonal wetlands and a grassveld plateau. It has been in the possession of one family for three generations, and has earned many conservation awards.

Birding is similar in many respects to the other reserves in the area, but here one can move all over the reserve of 3000ha on foot, and it has far less visitors, ensuring an exclusive experience. This is mainly due to the fact that only one party is housed in the Mfula Lodge at any time (at reasonable rates), and that day visitors are allowed by prior arrangement only. Pumalanga is situated between 40 and 270 m above sea level.

Specials
The north eastern corner of KwaZulu-Natal houses a number of birds not found elsewhere in South Africa. One has a good chance of finding the following of these at Pumalanga: Rudd's Apalis, Pink-throated Twinspot, Grey Waxbill, Eastern Nicator and Lemon-breasted Canary. Substantial numbers of African Openbill are usually present, a breeding pair of African Crowned Eagle has been utilising the same nest for many years, and even Southern Ground-Hornbill and Saddle-billed Stork can be present on occasion. Flappet Lark is common and Bushveld Pipit are often seen in the broadleaved woodland. Striped Pipit can be expected along grassy hillsides.

Habitats
The Mfula Lodge is situated in riverine forest (which borders all the main streams in the reserve). A large lake with earthen dam has been constructed just upstream, and many smaller dams dot the property. A rocky cliff borders the central stream system with its riverine forest. The lake is mainly surrounded by mixed woodland, parts of which are dominated by broadleaved woodland. The north western part of the reserve is a grassveld plateau some 100 metres higher than the plains surrounding it, with isolated trees. Below the plateau one finds a sandy plain with some remnants of sandveld forest and open, moist grassland often partially wet in summer. A substantial grassy plain dominates the centre of the reserve, surrounded with hills covered in mixed woodland, often dominated by thornveld, especially in lower lying areas. The southern border of the reserve consists of a fever tree (Acacia xanthophloea) forest.

Facilities
The main facility on the reserve is Mfula Lodge, a self-catering lodge sleeping up to 14 people (plus a number of children in the lofts). The lodge has separate sleeping units, all with en-suite ablution facilities (showers). A separate, fully-equipped kitchen and dining area overlooks the stream flowing past. A swimming pool, tennis court and cool room completes the available facilities. The lodge is unfenced, allowing wildlife to wander through the camp, especially at night.

The reserve is covered with a network of tracks, and a newly developed trail system. Generally, visitors will be required to be accompanied by a guide, due to the risk of getting lost and the presence of dangerous animals such as rhino, hippo, buffalo and elephant. However, certain parts of the reserve is open to be explored on foot by oneself. One such part is described in more detail in the next section. Enquire from the owner as to the exact limits of these areas. A detailed bird list is available to visitors.

Many of the tracks become impassable during and after heavy rains.

Birding
Excellent birding is possible in the riverine forest around Mfula Lodge. All the common birds of lowland KZN forests can be expected. This includes Square-tailed Drongo, Terrestrial Brownbul, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Eastern Nicator, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher and Dark-backed Weaver. Tambourine Dove is reasonably common, and more easily found if one is able to distinguish its call (lower pitched with deliberate final notes) from that of the common Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove. Purple-crested Turaco is always present somewhere. African Goshawk commonly displays above the forest. Red-fronted Tinkerbird calls from everywhere, and the Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird is only slightly less common. Bearded Scrub-Robin is an irregular visitor, but when present are often very tame around the lodge. Ashy Flycatcher is commonly recorded, and Grey Tit-Flycatcher prefer feeding just below the canopy, often over the braai area. Spring time offers a riot of sunbirds all over, especially around the coral trees (Erythrina lysistemon) and weeping boer-bean (Schotia brachypetala), and Purple-banded Sunbird, White-bellied Sunbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Collared Sunbird and Grey Sunbird are common. Black-bellied Starling also become numerous in winter, when they occur in flocks. In summer it can be difficult to distinguish them from cape Cape Glossy Starling, unless the light is excellent. The hills surrounding the lodge often hold Striped Pipit. Various bush shrikes occur in the forest and adjacent thickets: Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike is very common, Gorgeous Bush-Shrike and Grey-headed Bush-Shrike should be found with some searching and knowledge of the calls.

Look for Thick-billed Weaver and Common Waxbill in the reedbeds below the dam wall, whilst small colonies of Lesser Masked-Weaver and Village Weaver are dotted along the stream. Giant Kingfisher often fly up and down the stream. Grey Waxbill have also been recorded feeding in the grass along the stream, and are increasingly common. White-backed Night-Heron has on rare occasions been recorded feeding near the lodge.

The grassland on the dam wall often holds Yellow-throated Longclaw. On the lake African Openbill can be expected at all times, except when it is very full. The lake is the roosting spot for hundreds of Hadeda Ibis, and African Fish-Eagle breeds here. Numerous water birds occur under ideal conditions, and although this is the area to record rarely found specials, the general fare is quite standard for this region. In winter large flocks of Great White Pelican can be seen soaring from one water body to another, when they often feed in the lake and the other dams on the reserve.

A good walk lasting some 4 hours leads from the dam wall in a northerly direction, along the shores of the lake and into an excellent pocket of forest beneath some substantial volcanic cliffs. Beyond the lake, the path reaches an area where any of the forest birds can be expected. African Crowned Eagle breeds here. Southern Banded Snake-Eagle has been recorded a number of times. Crested Guineafowl forage amongst the tree trunks in the thicker sections. Narina Trogon occur, mostly in winter. The only record of African Broadbill comes from this area, also in winter. Crowned Hornbill and Trumpeter Hornbill often fly over this forest. Pink-throated Twinspot occurs throughout, but tends to be rather shy. Knowledge of its bell-like tinkling will alert one to its presence. Exit the forest by following the roads along the edge of the lake, and eventually higher up the hillsides towards the main entrance. The mixed woodland house a wide variety of woodland birds. Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove is particularly common, and Common Scimitarbill can be expected anywhere. Both Greater Honeyguide and Lesser Honeyguide occur in fair numbers. Woodpeckers and a variety of shrikes occur, often in mixed bird parties. Grey Penduline-Tit are rather keen on areas with stunted growth, such as that found near the entrance to the reserve. Kurrichane Buttonquail should also be looked for although it is not commonly recorded. Both Southern Black Flycatcher and Pale Flycatcher are common all the way through these parts, with the latter preferring broadleaved woodland. This is also the favoured habitat of Stierling's Wren-Warbler. The road around the lake provides a good opportunity of finding this bird, but one has to know the call, because they tend to be inconspicuous. Bushveld Pipit should also be searched for here, and Yellow-throated Petronia is common. Following the road back from the entrance towards Mfula Lodge takes one past the airstrip which is also a good birding area. It is one of the best spots for finding Lemon-breasted Canary, which is often found amongst Yellow-fronted Canary, especially at the northern end of the strip.

The plateau in the northern section of the reserve is particularly good for a variety of raptors, because of the updrafts created by the hillsides and because of the openness of the terrain. common species include Bateleur, White-backed Vulture, Wahlberg's Eagle (breeding migrant) and Martial Eagle. African Green-Pigeon is common at times when the various ficus trees are fruiting. Desert Cisticola is common - this is one of the few reliable spots for this species in KwaZulu-natal. Plain-backed Pipit can also be expected at most times. Early morning is the best time to try for Shelley's Francolin, but they are uncommon.

The grassland in the centre of the reserve is the stronghold of a number of Black-bellied Bustard (they can also be found on the plateau). At the edges of the plains Senegal Lapwing are often present on open areas in winter. This is also the spot to look for Banded Martin. A variety of other bushveld birds occur around the plains, including Crested Barbet and Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill. Red-billed Oxpecker should be looked from near giraffe. Burnt-necked Eremomela occurs in the drier thornveld of the more westerly areas and Red-backed Shrike is common in these areas in summer.

Night birds are not particularly well-represented at Pumalanga, but a guided night drive in early and late summer should provide the challenge of identifying several nightjar, including Fiery-necked Nightjar, European Nightjar, Freckled Nightjar and Square-tailed Nightjar.

General
Directions: From the north: Follow the N2 highway past Mkuze. Travel south for another 33km and turn left onto D242 (dirt) towards Mhlosinga. Veer right once the railway has been crossed. About 1 km further turn left towards southern Maputaland. 12 km along this road you will find the turn-off to the entrance gate of Pumalanga Nature Reserve.

From the south: Follow the N2 highway past Hluhluwe. Travel north for another 9km and take the off-ramp towards southern Maputaland. Turn right at the top of the off-ramp, cross over the N2 and turn left immediately afterwards at the T-junction. Follow this dirt road to the railway crossing, turning right immediately beyond that towards southern Maputaland. 12 km along this road you will find the turn-off to the entrance gate of Pumalanga Nature Reserve.

Directions inside the reserve: Pass through the gate and veer right at the split shortly afterwards (do not turn right immediately beyond the gate). Veer right again at the Mfula Lodge sign and follow the track all the way past the air strip to the Lodge.

Contact details: Mannie, Nela and Gerhard van Rooyen; telephone +27 35 562 0049; e-mail pumalanga@futurenet.co.za; web site www.pumalanga.co.za

Access should always be arranged with the Van Rooyens in advance. Day visitors have to pay a small entry fee, and an additional guiding fee may be requested. Negotiate with the owners in advance. Overnight visitors should also negotiate these details in advance. Game drives, as well as walking with a guide, are also available as per tariff list. An indemnity must be signed on arrival.

Birders are particularly welcome at this property.

Stephan Terblanche 2001.