Jonathan Rossouw

The "Wild Coast" lies between the mouths of the Mtamvuna and Kei Rivers in the northern part of the Eastern Cape and is renowned more for its rugged natural beauty than for its birds, all of which may be more easily seen elsewhere. Despite this and the inaccessibility of the area, the experience of birding in stunning surroundings makes a trip well worthwhile. A number of birding areas are dotted down the coast, most of which share a similar avifauna, and a minimum of two days at a selected site is recommended to justify the effort of getting there.

SPECIALS
Forest Buzzard, Delegorgue's Pigeon, Cinnamon Dove, Cape Parrot, Knysna Lourie, Green Coucal, Halfcollared Kingfisher and Mangrove Kingfisher, Knysna Woodpecker, Yellowstreaked Bulbul, Spotted Ground Thrush, Chorister Robin and Brown Robin, and Broadtailed Warbler and Knysna Warbler.

Two localities are dealt with in detail below and reflect the range of birding opportunities.

Mbotyi's main attraction is the pristine coastal forest that cloaks the hills overlooking the sea, the most extensive patch on the entire Wild Coast. A weekend spent birding this forest and surrounding areas should produce over 100 species.

Additional HABITATS include open grassland dotted with Acacias, cliffs and gorges, estuaries and lagoons with limited stands of mangroves, and sandy and rocky coastline.

FACILITIES are scarce but include a store at Mbotyi with basic supplies. Camping is the only option here but you will need to guard against theft, which is rife.

BIRDING:

1). Bird the last stretch of road before the coast or any of the numerous indistinct tracks leading into the forest for Olive Woodpecker, Yellowstreaked Bulbul and Terrestrial Bulbul, Chorister Robin and Forest Weaver. Knysna Lourie and Trumpeter Hornbill and Crowned Hornbill are common and conspicuous but listen carefully for the canopy calls of Delegorgue's Pigeon, Emerald Cuckoo, Narina Trogon, Scalythroated Honeyguide and Olive Bush Shrike. Sounds of scratching in the leaf litter may reveal the presence of a Cinnamon Dove, Spotted Ground Thrush or Brown Robin. Scan over the forest canopy for Cuckoo Hawk, Longcrested Eagles and Crowned Eagles, Forest Buzzard and Cape Parrot. Longtailed Wagtail and Halfcollared Kingfisher frequent forest streams, whilst both Wood Owl and (rare) Barred Owl may be heard calling at night.

2). Check forest edges for Rednecked Francolin, Knysna Woodpecker, Barratt's Warbler, Southern Tchagra, Greater Doublecollared Sunbird and Swee Waxbill, and surrounding grassland for Crowned Crane, Wailing Cisticola and Croaking Cisticola, and Plainbacked Pipit and Striped Pipit.

3). The estuaries and their fringing mangroves support Water Dikkop and various Kingfishers including Halfcollared Kingfisher and Mangrove Kingfisher (rare).

DIRECTIONS
Mbotyi may be reached on good gravel roads, either from the south via the Umtata-Port St. Johns road (turn off to Lusikisiki and continue to Mbotyi) or from the north via Flagstaff. Roads are signposted.

Dwesa Nature Reserve protects a range of habitats similar to those at Mbotyi, and forms the southern limit of the ranges of a number of birds typical of the East Coast. Despite the similarity, certain species are easier to see here than at Mbotyi, including the rare Mangrove Kingfisher.

FACILITIES include a rest camp and self-guided trail system.

1) A good selection of forest birds may be seen within the camp including Green Coucal, Knysna Lourie, Knysna Woodpecker, Brown Robin, Knysna Warbler, Grey Cuckooshrike and Forest Canary. Orange Ground Thrush, Starred Robin and Yellowthroated Warbler are altitudinal migrants to the coast in winter and are more readily seen at this time.

2) Halfcollared Kingfisher is common along the wooded streams and Mangrove Kingfisher has bred here.

3) Grassland species are similar to those at Mbotyi, though Broadtailed and Yellow Warblers are easier to see in moist habitat here. Check the area behind camp.

4) The coastline here and at Mbotyi may produce African Black Oystercatcher and roosting terns, whilst Shy Albatross, Blackbrowed Albatross and Yellownosed Albatross, Whitechinned Petrel and Cape Gannet may be seen from shore, particularly in bad weather.

GENERAL
Bungalow accommodation and camping is available; bring all your supplies. Reservations: Tel. Umtata 24322 or 249309. Access is from Udutywa via a good gravel road.

OTHER RECOMMENDED BIRDING SPOTS along the Wild Coast include Mkambati Nature Reserve (Ground Hornbill and Halfcollared Kingfisher) and Hluleka Nature Reserve (similar to Dwesa).